Wanderings - Episode 15 - The last days in Montana

(Warning--Photo heavy!)

The clouds had lifted by morning showing fresh snow on the Bitteroot Mountains and I began the drive south towards one of my favorite places in Montana.  Down hight way 93 past Lolo to Hamilton, where I stopped for a bookstore and a flat white at the coffee place.  Yet another book added to the box!  It's Sunday so not much was open so I went south again through the little tow of Darby where the TV series "Yellowstone" was filmed.  I didn't stop, not much open, not much to see.  Up the mountains to Lost Trail Pass  where I stopped to admire the snow  (and got snowed on!)

Once I'd gotten cold I crossed the highway to route 43 East to the Big Hole, the first of my favorite drives!  I stopped in again at the Visitors Center for, Big Hole National Battlefield mostly to ask about the forest fire whose remains could be seen for miles on the left of the highway.  I was told that they had removed all the artifacts and the staff thinking the very close fire was likely to engulf them as well but it stopped on the hill opposite them!  So all was well.  The snow had turned to light rain so after a peanut butter sandwich I continued on.

I'm going to let the pictures tell about the Big Hole!

I've never been in the Big Hole in the spring so the green was amazing!

This is cattle country made up of family ranches.

They still use the beaver slide to make gigantic piles of hay, I didn't see either the piles or the slide so the cows much have eaten it all!

There is only one very small town in the Big Hole, Wisdom.  When I say small, I mean TINY!

I once said that I thought I'd like to live there and was told that it was very cold and snowy there!

I finished the day off in Butte for two nights.  I can't imagine why I did that I don't like Butte!  There aren't any quilt shops of book stores-that I could find-and the mountain behind the town is still being mined for copper and the slag or whatever they call it is UGLY! 

Once on the road again I drove up the Interstate to Deer Lodge.  There is a lovely quilt shop there that I have visited every time I've been in Montana.  I added yet more fat quarters to my stash!  Then it was on to Helena, the state capital.  I had debated and debated about whether I was going to go up there or not.  My cousin lives there and I hadn't seen him since 2016, I wanted to see him but I didn't have a phone number to arrange a time so I was unsure about it.  It's a short but lovely drive up and somehow my route took me past two very nice quilt shops!  You guessed it more fabric added to the stash!  There was a snafu with the hotel but I got settled in before dinner, luckily there was a lovely place for dinner next door.  (That hardly happens!)  The next morning I got up found Starbucks and after some debate I plugged my cousin's address into Apple maps and drove up.  Once we recognized one another we had a lovely chat.  He is losing all his memories (that's the way he put it.) After agreeing to meet for dinner I headed out to check out another quilt shop-I didn't buy anything! We had a nice dinner at a good Mexican place before we parted.  It is unlikely that I will ever see them again-we are all getting OLD and it's a four day drive from Greenwood to Helena.

The next day, I left Helena for the next of my favorite Montana drives.  Down Interstate 15 to Wise River  and the Pioneer Mountains Scenic Byway Again, I'll let the Pictures tell the story!

Another long lovely drive never before seen in the spring!

I ended the day in Dillon. 

The next day I went shopping!  Bought yarn for a jacket, another glass ball, and several books in the downtown. Then I got ready for the drive out of Montana.  Getting closer to home.

 

Wanderings--Episode 14--Wallawalla to Missoula, MT

 Traveling Through Southeast Washington was peaceful and beautiful very green with rolling flatland.  Farm country.  Unfortunately, the drive was short then I arrived at Lewiston, Idaho.  Located right on the Snake River!  Apparently, Lewiston is an inland port of some kind.  There is a "Lake" with quite a few commercial boats--not the huge ocean-going ships but definitely for cargo.  I stopped off here fo hit a T J Maxx.  I was looking for more of a particular cosmetic bag.  I had purchased one in California and it was perfect for traveling and I had uses for more.  I didn't have lunch there-it should have occurred to me but sometimes I'm not terribly bright! Instead I turned onto US 12.  A scenic route that ran along side the Clearwater River

I stopped for lunch at some tiny town and ate at what we call a "greasy spoon"  I really should have eaten in Lewiston!

Back on the highway I saw the first sign.  

NEXT 77 MILES

Curving road,  Okay.  Only a few miles later there was a sign: 

 WATCH FOR FLYING WOOD 

TREE WORK NEAR.

I didn't see any but I was watching for that along with driving those curves.

Next there was

        WATCH FOR WILDLIFE ON ROAD.  Just a plain white sign not this 

or this 

so I guess to many possibilities.

I watched, didn't see anything but I know hitting a deer, a bear, a moose etc would not end happily for either of us!

Next, a plain white sign WATCH FOR STOCK ON HIGHWAY!  Again not this

Or sheep or. . .

Lastly, a large ORANGE sign:  Known wildfire near, may be smoke on highway.  Please do not report it!  Then. . .Watch for fire crews.  Then fire crew Rendevous.

I was really grateful to arrive on Lolo Pass safely!  I've been to the Visitor's Center there before so I didn't stop.  I bypassed it and started downhill in Montana.  At Lolo, MT on US93 I turned north and drove into Missoula for two nights.

I woke the next morning to the sound of rain.  I had been really lucky with weather so far but it can't last forever.    I have a cover on the bed of my truck but it isn't waterproof.  Most of the insane amount of stuff I I had filled it with was covered with waterproof sheets or in plastic totes.  My large suitcase, which had evolved into the holding area for clothes I was sure I wouldn't wear again is NOT waterproof nor covered So I had to run out and bring it in.

 After breakfast at Crackerbarrel and coffee from Starbucks I spent the morning looking around Missoula and shopping.  Hit a Montana shop for souvenirs and a  quilt shop for fat quarters (they had a sale going buy 10 get one free, who could pass that up?) and a few larger pieces.

In the afternoon, I found a laundromat for hopefully the last time! Once I'd finished that task I stopped in for a steak dinner and at TJ Maxx for you guessed it- more bags (I now have 6.)  The trouble with T J Maxx is that I always find something else to buy!

Back in the hotel for the night was spent repacking for the next leg of the trip.

Wanderings--Episode 13--Redmond, Or to Wallawalla, Wa

Since I only took 1 photo today I'm giving it to you BIG!

Mount Hood.

At one point I could see both Mt Hood and Mt Rainer but there was no place to stop and take a photo! 

 

It seemed like I drove forever!  On the map it looks like it takes forever and it's all mostly the same to look at! There were a lot of wind turbines especially in the Columbia River Valley-most on the Washington side as it's elevation above the river is much higher.  I didn't cross the river, I headed East until the river turned North.  Maybe I should put that the other way around - the Columbia takes a BIG turn from the North to the West.  You just have to wait for that  turn to head into Washington.  Wallawalla is not far north of Oregon and I did manage to get into my hotel in the daylight!

The next day I was off to The Whitman Mission National Historic Site.  I know quite a lot about the Oregon Trail after being a docent and Education Director at the National Frontier Trails Museum.  I have read many books and have traveled the trail most all of the way from Independence to the Willamette River.  Anyway, Two missionary wives were the first to travel the complete trail.  With their husbands they established two missions to the First Nations people in the area.  The Whitmans to the Cayuse.  It's a complicated story of a misguided attempt to bring Christianity to the people by teaching English, Reading, etc in a boarding style school.  As the Trail became more and more travelled, they also ministered to the travelers and with that came the measles.  Native people had no resistance to the Measles and could not understand why the travelers recovered while they died and so there was a massacre at the Whitman Mission and many people were killed. The historic site tells both sides of the story so I suggest you read the material on the link if you are interested. There isn't much to see there, except footings of the buildings but the interpretation is quite good. 

After that excursion I headed to Main Street to a Quilt shop quite appropriately named "STASH."  I only had the chance to take a quick peak around as they were closing but I went back the next day!  I did indeed add a few things to my stash.  

I walked around Main street, went into a book store-well I thought it was a book store but seemed more like a gift shop!  There was, however, a Starbucks!  

After that I headed back to the hotel.  I repacked the suitcase, etc for the morning as I was Off Eastward, once again!

Wanderings--Episode 12--Albany to Redmond via Sisters

The morning had me once again headed east down Hwy 20.  I passed through through the Willamette National forest where I stopped to walk around a bit at the. . .

    

These trees are huge! Some of the trunks could have rivaled a redwood.  Old growth Douglas Fir the sign said.

They were very TALL!

The path was inviting so I walked a little ways down just to see.

All such side trips have to come to an end so once again I went east towards one of the Mecas of Quilters. You know, Paduka, Missouri Star and. . .

Sisters.

The Three Sisters looked amazing and were still snow covered.

I don't know what I expected to find in Sisters.  I was sort of underwhelmed by it. 

I bought a book at Paulinas and enjoyed watching the Golden Retrievers look for a Chipmunk in of the stores (they never did find it!)  Lots of window shopping.  It wasn't show week so that probably would make it different.  There was quite a lot of traffic and folks walking about, but I didn't have trouble parking.  I did have trouble finding something to eat though, ended up at Dairy Queen!  At least there was a blizzard.

After several hours in Sisters I got on the road east again to Redmond.  Which is only about 20 miles from Sisters I chose it in case I wanted to return the next day-I didn't. 

 

Wanderings--Episode 11--Gold Beach to Albany

One last photo from Gold Beach. 

This is a Christmas Ornament from the Nutcracker Suite Ballet, Mother Ginger and her skirt full of children!  Had to have it! I've seen lots of Nutcracker things but I've never seen this before.

 Apparently, I didn't take a single photo today!  What was I thinking?

There are not very many roads over the Costal Range from the ocean.  There is one out of Gold Beach BUT it looked to be a very secondary road and when asked the sweet ladies at the Visitor's Center Did Not recommend it.  Instead they recommended heading north on the 101 to Reedsport.  So, after another bread bowl of clam chowder that's the way I went.  

I spent some time driving around Coos Bay, didn't stop in at the tourist part of town but did stop in at a lovely Wool Shop.  (Once I found a way to get there and a place to park-always a challenge!) I didn't purchase any wool here but did choose a mineral darning egg - very pretty.  Will I ever use it?  Who knows but I do like "Pretty" rocks!

After Coos Bay it's a short drive to Reedsport where I said a sad goodbye to the Oregon Coast and began the long trek home.  Which I expect to take another two weeks!  I arrived in Albany late enough to check in and early enough for dinner.  I still did not have location services on my phone!  I thought it would clear up once I got inland but no, I had to find Starbucks on my own, sigh.

The next day I took a short drive to Scio, Oregon where my Great-grandfather William Hickam is buried.  I wanted to see the headstone(S) His wife, Cora,  returned to Missouri after he died and is buried in Vernon, County.  There is a separate stone for William next to hers which reads buried Scio Oregon.  Apparently, there is a headstone in Scio for Cora so people think she is buried there.  Scio is a very small place and I did not find the cemetery, nor did I find anyone who could tell me where it was, there was no one home at the Sheriffs office!  I decided I would write some letters including the documents to the Historical Society (S) to perhaps cheer up this misconception.  

It was still early when I returned to Albany.  The truck needed an oil change and  I had to find out why I had no Apple Maps on the phone.  So off I went to Valvoline for the oil change, on the way there I saw a Verizon Store!  One quick oil change and I was off trying to find a way to the Verizon Store-I think I wandered about for 15 minutes (would have been much faster with Apple Maps!)  The Tech played around with my phone for a while and found that my VPN was keeping my phone from connecting to the net!  Fixed that and presto Apple Maps worked again!

Back to the hotel for the night.  Tomorrow I'm off again heading east across a part of Oregon that is new to me.

Wandering - Episode 10 - Crescent City, CA to Gold Beach, OR

Crescent City has a large harbor, so there is a lighthouse!  I've taken MANY shots of lighthouses over the years on the west coast, it seems that they have a somewhat similar building.  This one reminds me of the light at Cabrillo National Monument.

I was driving along a breezeway that goes by the marina, but there are seals! It must have been too early for them as they were sleeping.

There were some large fishing vessels in port this day.

They are fitted out with hoist and nets and big lights, interesting.  I suspect all the fish I've been eating has been caught on one of these.

After a quick trip to Walmart (haven't seen one of those since Grand Junction, Colorado!) 

On the way I drove by a Chipotle!  I'll be having dinner there!

When I finished that part of the day, I followed the signs to a lovely park and a closer view of the lighthouse.  The shore here is loaded with driftwood and everywhere there are people hunting for agates.

There is a long breezeway here, a lovely flat surface.  I thought it might be nice to have a walk, UNTIL I read all the warning signs!  Apparently, sleeper waves come in high and strong.  Strong enough to wash you off that lovely walkway.  I decided that I couldn't out run such a wave so I would just stay safe in the parking lot!

Back at the hotel, I did laundry.  Such a fun activity, NOT

As always happens I had to reload the suitcase and get ready to leave the next morning.

I am never in a hurry to get out of any hotel and the trip to Gold Beach is short-like maybe 50 miles!

I stopped near Bandon, Oregon  for more costal photos.  The coast gets rockier and the water colder  the further North you go.  I really liked this formation, if you look closely you can see a keyhole just left of center.

 

Same stop just looking North.

So many pictures of the Pacific.

I arrived way too early to check in but I did go by the hotel and ask for a walk-in room.  I am temporarily disabled with difficulty walking,  there is no way I could carry luggage up stairs!  I had a bowl of amazing Clam Chowder for lunch.  (I remembered this place from my trip in 2010.)

 After that I took myself to the Visitor's Center, still without location services on my phone I needed a MAP!  Most of the town of Gold Beach is high above the actual beach and the road down is quite steep, about halfway down I remembered the road from 2010 as well.  Kelsey (one of the shelties before Quinn) and I parked in their lot and walked on the beach, one evening we even sat and watched the sun set from there.  The ladies in the Center were very nice. A couple of days later they helped me navigate my way inland. Loaded with a map I took my first walk on the beach, lots of lovely rocks here, Hum.  I left Gold Beach with a bag of pretty rocks, no agates though.

The view from my private balcony!  I had a lovely room there.  With the door open to the balcony you could hear the surf and feel the breeze it was wonderful. I think Gold Beach is my favorite place this trip.  While it is a tourist destination, lots of hotels and restaurants, it isn't as commercial as many other places.  There's the amazing Clam Chowder at the Porthole restaurant-I might have eaten it more than once!) I had to hunt for places to shop but I did find a fun Christmas shop there.

My last evening there, my last photos from Gold Beach.  I will miss you.

 

Wanderings--Episode 9--Bodega Bay to Crescent City

Starting off from Petaluma again, I retraced my steps to Bodega Bay and The 1.  The last stretch of The 1  The usual twists, turns, ups and downs that is The 1.  Lots to see, no where to eat!  I was starving when I came to a very busy looking place near Gualala, California.

I decided to wait for the lines to shorten so I walked along their lovely overlook, was invite his owner "to pet a very friendly dog!"  Being a dog person I was happy to oblige both human and dog!  Then I took pictures of the Pacific.  The further north I go the more rocks are in the ocean.  Also, no one surfing, paddle boarding, or even wading.  The Pacific is cold even at San Diego but the further north you go the colder it gets.  Plus they have sneaker waves and strong undertow-it's not really safe.  Sure is pretty though!

 

After the picture taking/dog petting I decided to head in for FOOD.  A burger and a slice of pie!  They delivered the pie first, I tried to resist but I was SO hungry I ate the pie first!  (Gretchen you might have ruined me!)  When I was finished another lady stopped me and said how happy she was to see me eating the pie before the burger!

 Well fed I continued North.  At Van Damme State Park I stopped again to stretch my legs and look at the Pacific.  While Missouri has a multitude of large lakes, seas of trees and oceans of grass, we do not have an actual ocean with waves and tide!

Soon the road turns inland and joins the 101 for the rest of the trip.  It is as full of twists, turns, ups and downs as the 1.  It does add tree tunnels though.  

Sometime earlier on this day, I lost location services on my phone,  It didn't seem to matter as there was only one way to go but it made finding my hotel difficult especially as I arrived after dark.  Exhausted, I checked in and crashed.